Hi friends!
I’ve spent one week in August 2019 in South Korea and it was A-MA-ZING! Because I loved this country so much (also because I am a kind person), I decided to share with you the itinerary I followed and the activities I’ve done. I flew from Paris on a Sunday around 1 PM and arrived on a Monday at 7 AM in Seoul.
Therefore, this itinerary is intentionally starting on a Monday. Make sure to check if the monuments are open or not before your visit as some monuments can be closed on certain days. Opening and closing hours can also vary from summertime to wintertime.
All the opening hours you will see throughout the article will be during summertime (June through August).
Here are some currency exchanges just for you to have a little guidance on the worth of the South Korean Won (₩ / KRW):
$10 = ₩12,306
10€ = ₩13,317
£10 = ₩15,216
Seoul in 3 Days
First TIP of this journey: You should buy the Combination Ticket (also called Royal Palace Pass) at the first monument that we’re going to visit, which is the Gyeongbokgung Palace. It’s ₩10,000 for an adult and ₩5,000 for the youth. It will allow you to have one admission for each of the 4 existing palaces in Seoul (including the Secret Garden of the Changdeokgung Palace) + the Jongmyo Shrine. Knowing that with this itinerary, you will visit 3 palaces (Gyeongbokgung Palace + Changdeokgung Palace & its Secret Garden + Deoksugung Palace) and the Jongmyo Shrine, it is worth taking the Combination Ticket.
The combined price of the 3 palaces + the Secret Garden + the Jongmyo Shrine for an adult without the Combination Ticket = ₩13,000
The combined price of the 3 palaces + the Secret Garden + the Jongmyo Shrine for a child without the Combination Ticket = ₩6,500
It is, therefore, less expensive to buy the Combination Ticket. Furthermore, if you have some spare time to visit the 4th palace (that I will not present in this guide), you will not have to pay more. In conclusion, take the goddamn Combination Ticket.
DAY 1
Gyeongbokgung Palace (경복궁)
Start the visit with one of the finest monuments in Seoul. Built in 1395, this palace was the main residence of the royalty under the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910, so for a pretty long time lol). It has been damaged a lot throughout history, mainly because of wars opposing Korea and Japan. Avoid big crowds and huge courtyards, and have a look at the smaller ones, right in the intimacy of the royalty. What is important in the palace are the small details, for instance, the many colorful beams or the beautiful patterns on the walls.
Address: 161 Sajik-ro, Sejongno, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: It is open every day (except on Tuesdays) from 9 AM until 6:30 PM (with final admissions at 5:30 PM).
Price (that you will not pay since you’re smart and you took the Combination Ticket):
19 to 64 years old: ₩3,000
7 to 18 years old: ₩1,500
65 and above, 6 years old and under: Free
Then, 8 minutes walk to go to…
Jogyesa Temple (조계사)
It was founded in 1395 and was called Gakhawangsa Temple. It became the “Jogyesa Temple” only in 1954 because this temple obeys the Jogye Order of Korean Buddhism. As soon as you enter, you’ll see a sort of huge outdoor ceiling made of garlands, representing a beautiful rainbow! I think you will find it funny that this ancient building is surrounded by so many modern buildings, as the temple is located in the city centre. Also, as it was WAY too hot outside, people from the temple gave us lots of bottles of water, which was greatly appreciated!
Address: 55 Ujeongguk-ro, Gyeonji-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: 24h/7
Price: Free
Because we’re not lazy asshats, we’re going to walk 27 minutes to…
Myeongdong Cathedral (명동성당)
The Myeong-Dong Cathedral, also called the Cathedral Church of the Virgin Mary of the Immaculate Conception, is the most important Christian building in Seoul, and probably in South Korea too. You’ll be amazed by the serenity that will embrace you as soon as you enter the place. It was founded in 1898 by French Catholics missionaries as part of their foreign evangelist expeditions.
Address: 74 Myeongdong-gil, Jeodong 1(il)-ga, Jung-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: To be honest, we visited the Cathedral on a Monday afternoon but I couldn’t find the opening times. However, on their website, they said that Confession time on Monday was between 1 PM and 5 PM; therefore, I would suggest you visit the cathedral in these times.
Price: Free
We’re gonna walk 16 minutes to go to…
Myeongdong (명동) and Insadong (인사동)
Insadong was an antique shopping district at the end of the Joseon dynasty. Nowadays, it’s a section of the city full of art galleries, souvenir shops, tea houses but also cafés, restaurants, and other traditional shops.
Myeongdong is newer and more “hipster” than Insadong (and that’s the tea). It is full of big shops, street-food carts, K-Pop stores, beauty shops and there’s even an underground mall (how cool is that?)!
Take as much time as you need in these districts to eat, shop, and clearly do whatever you want to do.
However, don’t forget to go to the next stop before it closes. It’s 28 min North from the Myeongdong Cathedral and it is…
Jongmyo Shrine (종묘)
The Royal Shrine of Jongmyo was built in 1394 and is the oldest royal preserved Confucianist sanctuary in South Korea. It’s also the most authentic because it kept its ancient architecture (even though the building has been destroyed during the first Japanese invasion 😥) and its ritual practices. The kings of the time went there to take part in ancestral rites, but also to honor the memory of their royal ancestors. Fun fact, the Shrine is thought to be one of the longest buildings in Asia, if not THE longest lol (you can check this fact, I’m not lying).
Address: 157 Jong-ro, Hunjeong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: It is open every day (except on Tuesdays) from 9 AM until 6:30PM (with final admissions at 5:30 PM).
Price (don’t forget the Combination Ticket if you have it):
19 to 64 years old: ₩1,000
7 to 18 years old: ₩500
64 and above, 6 years old and under: Free
I think we almost reached the end of the day, which means that we can go get a green tea (or a beer, a wine, a coffee, anything that will make you happy and relax as I care about you, whoever is reading this!). My advice would be to go and walk 14 minutes to…
Osulloc Tea House
You can eat everything with green tea flavor (it means if you don’t like green tea, first, how dare you? And second, go somewhere else lol). You can eat green tea flavored ice cream, cake, flan, frappés, and you know what? Go see yourself, I’m getting hungry!
Address: Seoul, Jongno-gu, Gwanhun-dong, 170
Opening Hours: Open every day from 10 AM until 10 PM.
After you got to relax, you maybe had the time to go to your accommodation to change, it’s time to finish with…
Hongdae (홍대)
You can start to have diner here if you wish! That’s what I did, knowing that I eat around 8 PM most of the time. For diner, you can either eat from street-food carts, which serve Odeng (fish pancakes) or Dak-kkochi (chicken or pork skewers) amongst others. If you prefer to be seated, let’s go eat a Korean barbecue since it’s your first night. I would advise you to go to Choigozip Hongdae (25 World cup buk-ro 2-gil, Seogyo-dong, Mapo-gu, Seoul) which serves delicious meat. On a Monday, it should close around midnight so you have all the time you want to eat.
Finally, if you’re not too tired, it’s a young and festive district, so go get some beers, or even Soju, the national Korean alcohol, and have some fun! Just remember to not get hammered as we will have more things to do the next day!
DAY 2
Naksan Park (낙산공원)
Let’s begin this day with some fresh air and with the visit of the Naksan Park, one of the 4 mounts of Seoul. In Korean, “nakta” means camel, and “san” means mountain, thus people name the park Nakta Park or Naksan Park. The Joseon royal family appreciated the natural beauty of the granite mountain, but a hurried method of urban planning led to the destruction of most parts of the mountain during the Japanese Colonial Era. This historic and majestic park is located in the center of Seoul, enabling people to see the magnificence of the entire city when the weather allows it.
Address: 41 Naksan-gil, Ihwa-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: 24h/7
Price: Free
Then, because we love exercising (we do not), let’s walk around 5 minutes to go to…
Ihwa Mural Village (이화 벽화마을)
Street art at its finest! However, you need to deserve it as you will have to climb throughout the village. Just as a reminder, you’re next to Naksan Park, one of Seoul’s hill. Therefore, no rush, take your time, go as slow as you want as you enjoy the frescoes and paintings along your way.
A little tip: There’s a cat boutique! I mean, there are no actual living cats in the boutique, but artists go there to draw postcards, various objects, and jewelry at the effigy of cats. If you don’t like cats, well, too bad for you.
If you didn’t get lunch yet, one of my advice is to walk around 5-10 minutes depending on where you are in Ihwa Village to go to eat a…
Kongbap (콩밥)
This Korean dish is a sort of terracotta pot where rice is being cooked with beans (red or black). Several side dishes come with the main dish, like spicy tofu, kimchi, tuna, etc. You can even mix some things like the Kongbap with Bulgogi beef (a sort of meat stew with vegetables). I would recommend you to go to the following restaurant:
채선당행복가마솥밥대학로점 (yes, there is no English name, deal with it).
Address: 1-145 Dongsung-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: It is open from 11 AM until 10 PM (last service at 9:30 PM).
After finishing eating, you can walk 30 minutes to digest, or take the 109 line bus, or the metro lines 4 then 3 to go to…
Changdeokgung Palace (창덕궁)
Founded in 1405, this palace was very appreciated by the numerous kings and queens from the Joseon dynasty. You will see that its official and residential buildings are in harmony with nature and are part of a very vast domain. You can find South the Palace, North the Secret Garden, and East the Changgyeonggung Palace.
A little tip: You NEED to enter the Secret Garden of the palace and walk where the kings and queens of the past were coming to chill and escape their royal obligations. Plus, it’s very pretty. You can only go through the Secret Garden with a guide, as you’ll be part of a group of 100 people. The tour generally lasts around 70 minutes. You can either book online (from 6 days to 1 day prior to the palace’s visit, with 50 tickets available) or purchase tickets on-site. However, on-site, it’s on a “first-come-first-served basis” as only 50 tickets are being physically sold per tour. I purchased it on-site but I took a risk (because I love a risky life), so really do as you want.
Address: 99 Yulgok-ro, Waryong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours:
- Palace: It is open every day (except on Mondays) from 9 AM until 6:30 PM (with final admissions at 5:30 PM).
- Secret Garden: It is open every day (except on Mondays) from 10 AM until 6 PM (with ticket sales starting at 9 AM and final admissions at 4:30 PM).
- Take into consideration that for The Secret Garden, there are only 4 English Guided Tours which are at 10:30 AM, 11:30 AM, 2:30 PM, and 3:30 PM. If you don’t care about English tours, you can always join Korean tours that are way more frequent (there are 8 of them per day), plus there is 1 Chinese tour and 1 Japanese tour.
Price (if you didn’t take the Combination Ticket):
Palace:
19 to 64 years old: ₩3,000
7 to 18 years old: ₩1,500
It is free for children under 7 years old, seniors over 65 years old, people wearing a Hanbok (traditional Korean clothes) and on culture day (last Wednesdays of every month).
Secret Garden (knowing that you need to buy first the ticket of the Palace to buy the ticket of the Secret Garden lol, except for seniors that only need to pay the Secret Garden but not the Palace’s ticket):
19 to 64 years old: ₩5,000
7 to 18 years old: ₩2,500
Over 65 years old: ₩5,000
Be careful though!! If you have a Combination Ticket, it is written on the website of the Palace that:
“Royal Palace Pass holder must exchange the Secret Garden Voucher for a valid ticket at the ticket office, on a first-come-first-served basis. Purchasing a Royal Palace Pass does not guarantee entrance to the Secret Garden.”
Let’s pursue this historic tour by walking 20 minutes to…
Bukchon Hanok Village (북촌한옥마을)
Bukchon was historically a nobility residential area during the Joseon period, with more than 600 years of age, and underwent no major changes until the 1920s. However, the administrative districts of Seoul were enlarged in the 1930s, and its urban structure was transformed into its modern style. The characteristics of Bukchon Hanok can be divided into two elements – an evolved ancient method and a more decorative feature.
Even if many of the buildings are today transformed into guesthouses, shops, tea houses, or cultural centers, some of them are still inhabited so please, don’t be loud while visiting the district.
Address: 37, Gyedong-gil, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening hours: Open every day from 9 AM to 6 PM on weekdays and from 9 AM to 5 PM the weekend. This apparently applies only to “100-m long road along Bukchon-ro 11-gil”.
Price: Free
Now, because it is the end of the day, it’s tea time!! You’re free to drink anything you want but as a recommendation, I would recommend you to walk 5 minutes to go to…
Cha-teul
You may encounter many tourists there but isn’t it cute?? Let’s finish the day at Cha-teul, which literally means “tea-drinking garden”. You need to step there without your shoes, and you’re served with the detailed Korean tea-drinking practices. The sunset from there is beautiful and I cannot recommend you enough to go there!!
Address: 26 Bukchon-ro 11na-gil, Samcheong-dong, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: Every day from 10 AM until 9 PM.
After you got to relax, and you did whatever you had to do (go back to your accommodation, shower, etc.), it’s time for diner, and the best place to go to is…
Gwangjang Market (광장시장)
Gwangjang has been around for at least 100 years and is one of the most known markets in Seoul. You can find there a variety of products like silk, fabrics, and different soft goods to make up hanboks, for example. There are also kitchen utensils, fruits, vegetables, fresh fish and meat, etc.
The coolest moment is the night though, where a good atmosphere is present in the Gwangjang restaurant area. People from all generations, without necessarily knowing each other, seat side by side in front of the food stands to eat delicious, popular, and inexpensive dishes. The market is a true food gem and a must-to-go in Seoul.
Address: 88 Changgyeonggung-ro, Jongno 4(sa)-ga, Jongno-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: The market (fruits, vegetables, textiles, etc.) is open from 9 AM and closes at 6 PM. The vintage shops open at 10 AM and close at 7 PM. Concerning the Street Food and restaurants part, the official website says “till 11:00 pm (never closed)”.
After eating, if you still have the strength to do anything else, you can visit and/or party in one of the finest districts of Seoul, which is around 40 minutes away from the market by metro (line 5/2 then N train) to…
Gangnam-Gu (강남구)
Yes, Gangnam Style! We all know the famous song from the singer PSY but did you know Gangnam was a famous nightlife district? It is located south of the Han River. While walking around the streets in Gangnam, try to find the K-Pop Street. You will find art-toy statues, representing some K-Pop artists groups. If you’re a fan of K-Pop music and Korean celebrities or you’re simply intrigued about all the hype around it/them, it is a must-go!
Gangnam is not only a shopping district but also a famous district for restaurants, bars, and nightclubs. These are very different from the one you saw in Hongdae, more high-end I would say, and will show you another aspect of Seoul nightlife.
DAY 3
Deoksugung Palace (덕수궁)
I know, you’re going to tell me “gneu gneu gneu but we’ve done already two palaces, can’t we skip this one?” Yes, you can! But shame on you if you skip it, as all palaces are very different from one another.
Deoksugung Palace was built primarily at the end of the 20th century and is the smallest of Seoul’s palaces. The name Deoksugung Palace means “Palace of Virtue and Longevity”. It is famous for being located next to a range of western-style buildings that add to the charm of the surrounding environment.
The most exciting thing to see there is the Changing of the Royal Guard, which happens every day (except on Mondays) at 11 AM, 2 PM, and 3:30 PM. Therefore, you should start the visit around 10-10:15 AM to enjoy the 11 AM Changing.
Address: 99 Sejong-daero, Jeong-dong, Jung-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: It is open every day (except on Mondays) from 9 AM until 9 PM (with final admissions at 8 PM).
Price (it doesn’t concern you if you have the Combination Ticket):
19 to 64 years old: ₩1,000
7 to 18 years old: ₩500
It is free for children under 7 years old, seniors over 65 years old, people wearing a Hanbok (traditional Korean clothes) and on culture day (last Wednesdays of every month).
After you’re done with the palace, you should walk 25-30 minutes and then take the Namsan Cable Car for 5 minutes to…
Namsan Seoul Tower (남산서울타워)
Namsan Seoul Tower, located on the Namsan Mountain, was Korea’s initial tourism tower-type place. The tower’s peak is at nearly 480 meters above sea level, including Namsan Mountain (243 m) and the tower’s own height (236.7 m), making it one of Asia’s tallest buildings.
The tower was first built in 1969 as a broadcast tower to send out television and radio signals. It has also, as of now, been one of Seoul’s symbolic landmarks and multicultural venues. The view is outstanding, which explains why a lot of young Korean couples go there on dates to celebrate their anniversary or confess their love. If you’re scared of heights, I would of course not recommend this activity (you wimp).
Address: 105 Namsangongwon-gil, Yongsan 2(i)ga-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: The observatory is open every day from 10 AM until 11 PM on weekdays and Sundays. It is also open from 10 AM until midnight on Saturdays.
Price Observatory:
Adults (over 13 years old): ₩11,000
Children and Seniors (3 – 12 years old and over 65 years old): ₩9,000
Price Namsan Cable Car Roundtrip (you should take the roundtrip ticket as we’ll go down the same way):
Adults (over 13 years old): ₩9,500
Children and Seniors (3 – 12 years old and over 65 years old): ₩6,500
I would recommend you to have lunch in one of the 7 restaurants present at the N Tower, then you will have time to digest and appreciate the next stop, which is a museum. You will have to take the Namsan Cable Car to go down and take the metro line 4 to…
War Memorial of Korea (전쟁기념관)
Korea’s War Memorial is located in the Yongsan-dong’s district. It is a huge museum that opened in 1994 on the former headquarters site of the army to display and memorize Korea’s military history. It was designed to prevent war by giving lessons from the Korean War (opposing North and South Korea), hoping for peaceful reunification. I decided to include the War Memorial of Korea on my trip because I’ve always been passionate about war history since I was little. Also, I remember going to their café and spilling all my Ice Coffee on my white T-shirt. Great memories, right?
Address: 29 Itaewon-ro, Namyeong-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: The museum is open every day (except on Mondays) from 9:30 AM until 6 PM.
Price: Free
Leaving from the War Memorial of Korea, you can either walk 30 minutes or take the metro line 6 for 17 minutes to go to…
Itaewon Antique Street (이태원앤틱가구협회)
Back in the 60s, American soldiers would put out their furniture and sell it out on the street before going back to the US, leading to Itaewon Antique Furniture Street being created. For those interested in walking along a medieval European-like street in Seoul, this is a must-visit spot. There are more than 100 shops selling furniture and antiques, going from Hamilton Hotel to Bogwang-ro.
Address: Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seou
Opening Hours: It concerns the majority of the shops. It should be open from 10 AM until 7 PM every day, except on Sundays when most boutiques are closed.
After you visited, shopped, or both, you should take the metro lines 6 and then 4 for 30 minutes to go to…
National Museum of Korea (국립중앙박물관)
Korea’s National Museum holds an impressive collection of over 220,000 million artefacts over a wide variety of disciplines, from ancient times to the modern period, including art and culture. The museum houses a Children’s Museum, where visitors can learn more about the history of the country through educational programs and experiences. The outdoor grounds display pagodas and other stone artworks that are too large to reveal indoors. I visited the museum on a Wednesday, so it was open until 9 PM. It was great, especially since we had a lot of things to visit this day!
Address: 137 Seobinggo-ro, Seobinggo-dong, Yongsan-gu, 서울특별시
Opening Hours: The museum is open every day and the hours vary depending on the days:
- Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday: 10 AM – 6 PM
- Wednesday & Saturday: 10 AM – 9 PM
- Sunday & Holidays: 10 AM – 7 PM
Price: Free, except for the special exhibition gallery (like any museums).
After you’ve done everything you had to do, it is time for diner. And I couldn’t recommend you more than to go to…
Nori Table
I know you’re gonna say “gneu gneu gneu beut Samy dis iz Japanize not Koréanne” well first get lost, and second, if you’re only visiting South Korea and haven’t planned to go to Japan, well this is the closest thing that will taste like Japan so be grateful. Anyways, you have a lot of choices there, from teriyakis to baked mussels, tempura noodles, and the classic sushis/makis, etc. Not only the food is incredibly good in this restaurant, but they also have fried ice cream (how cool is that??)!
Address: 455-47 Itaewon 2(i)-dong, Yongsan-gu, Seoul
Opening Hours: It’s open every day from noon until 11 PM
Now that you’ve eaten, you don’t need to take any public transportation nor walk because you’re already in…
Itaewon (이태원)
Our final stop in Seoul, the marvellous district of Itaewon! Itaewon is one of Seoul’s most visited locations by tourists. This multicultural haven is a go-to for anyone who is looking to taste international food, bars on rooftops, and internationally friendly clubs. For my LGBTQ+ friends, there’s even the Homo Hill, a gay bar area, with some featuring drag shows. If you want something more laidback for your last night, you should walk over to the nearby expat neighbourhoods of Haebangchon or Gyeongnidan which features smaller, more casual establishments.
Here is the end of this trip to Seoul! I don’t know how long you’re staying, but I stayed for three days and nights. I will, of course, say that it is not enough to visit every single attraction that the city has to offer, but hey, it’s always a good reason to come back another time, right?
Anyway, I know it was a long article, and probably not a lot of people will go through everything, but it was an immense pleasure to write about this city; and I truly hope that you felt my excitement and happiness throughout the text!
The next article will feature a historic city in South Korea, Gyeongju. Stay tuned!! If you enjoy the content of my blog, don’t forget to follow A Gourmet Vagabond on WordPress and my social media channels, to be updated about new upcoming articles and other fun stuff!
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